Chocolate espresso dacqoise (gluten free), and science of egg whites!

Valentine's Day Menu

Lots of things are happening. My rank list is in. Tyler and I are going to Peru this week with a tenuous plan at best. Formation came out and I loved it. Hillary Clinton is running for president and is BOSS. Oh yeah, and I finished my last clinical rotation in medical school. It's weird -- it's almost like yesterday when I stepped on the wards for the first time, with a clean white coat (it's an odd shade of yellow-brown-white now), a stethoscope around my neck (which has since been replaced after losing it), and a pocket full of snacks and books (still there). I started on the Heart Failure service on my medicine clerkship with my "cohort" for the clerkship being Dave Cholok, Jason Kung, and Kira Masco, people I had never really talked to much or thought about much before the start of third year. My first presentation was...not good...and I spent at least 45 minutes preparing it. And now my next patient presentation will probably be as an intern, hopefully a little better than it was two years ago.

We'll see.

Look at all those layers!

Anyways, I made a dacqoise for valentines dinner! It's a french dessert made with almond and hazelnut meringue that seems super complicated to make, but it's really not. I made it, I know the pitfalls, now I can share them with you! And realistically...my future self. Anyways. It's simple. It's meringue, buttercream, and ganache. It just takes a full day mostly because you have to rest it and allow it to soften. Then at the end of the day, or the next day, you have a delicious, delicious cake. Arguably the best cake I've ever had.

Some science: Beating eggs

What is Cream of Tartar? 
It's an acid. It is the salt of tartaric acid. There are a few definitions for an acid two of which are that acids can be a proton donor, or an electron acceptor -- but this is a little too detailed to matter right now. What you need to know is that tartaric acid has a bunch of protons in it (or that it can accept a lot of electrons).

What happens when you beat eggs? 
You agitate it with a whisk enough that you (A) incorporate air bubbles that have water on their surface and (B) denature the proteins, meaning you make then go from gooped up blobs to unraveled. The proteins, since they are made up of a bunch of different atoms, start attaching to each other. Particularly, the sulfur ions that help stabilize the structure of the proteins start attaching to each other. These bonds surround some of the air bubbles, and "squeeze" the water off the surface of the air bubbles. This is why when you whisk egg whites sometimes you get that pool of water at the bottom if you let them sit for a minute.

What's the point of adding Cream of Tartar to egg white when you beat them? 

They "stabilize" the proteins. What that means is that the acid (protons) in the Tartaric acid bind to the sulfur ions and prevent them from bonding too tightly and keep them in an "open" loose formation. They keeps the water in the meringue for the most part and keeps your egg whites from deflating.

What does this mean?

This means that you can add any acid and achieve similar results! Lemon juice, etc. The upside to the tartaric acid is that (A) you don't add liquid volume and (B) you don't impart (much) flavor other than the tang of the acid if you add too much...which I've done before.

So wait...it doesn't increase the volume of the egg white?

Nope, beating it just does that, cream of tartar just stabilizes the proteins by donating a protein (or accepting electrons!). Another thing you can do to make your egg white beating go faster is not add sugar at the beginning.  This is because sugar attracts water (hygroscopic) and the crystals can get in the way of the egg proteins unravelling and finding each other. So if you add the sugar part way through, it can help keep the water in, and won't slow down your egg white beating.

Whew, now that we're done with the science...on to the delicious!

Chocolate-espresso dacquoise
Modified from Treats-SF

My advice when starting this --

• read the directions for each component first and get your mise en place (ingredients ready to go). 
• Actually put everything in the fridge for the resting times. 
• Really make sure your meringue has a smooth top when you put it in the oven, it really makes life so much easier when you are putting the whole thing together later. For reals. FOR REALS. 
• All components can be made ahead of time up to two days. Even the whole cake can be made a whole day ahead of time. 

Meringue

• 4 egg whites (save the yellows, you need them for the buttercream) 
• 3/4 cup almond meal
• 1/2 cup hazelnuts, toasted
• 3/4 cup plain white sugar
• 1/4 tsp cream of tartar
• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 1/8 tsp salt 

Preheat oven to 250F 

Line a baking sheet with wax paper. Measure out a rectangle of 10x13inches and draw it in with a pencil. Then place the pencil side down on the baking sheet. This is important because it'll let you make a perfect rectangle, which will help with the dacquoise. You can get your parchment paper to stick by spraying the bottom of your baking sheet and then putting the parchment paper down.  

In a food processor, pulse 1/2 the sugar, all the hazelnuts, almond meal, cornstarch, and salt together into a fine texture. In the bowl of stand mixer, put the eggwhites and cream of tartar in the bowl, put it on low-medium and with whisk attachment, and whisk until foamy. Then turn up the speed to medium-high and slowly add the other half of the sugar. Keep beating until stiff peaks form. It took me 4-5 minutes. Then fold in the almond meal-hazelnut mixture in two batches. 

Spread it evenly on the parchment paper and make sure the top is as level as you can get it. Trust me, I didn't, and this step is important. 

Pop it in the oven for an hour and a half. Then turn the oven off without opening it (you don't want the heat to escape) and keep it in the oven for another hour to hour and a half to harden. Then pull it out and let it cool. 

German Buttercream 

• 4 egg yolks
• 2 tbsp sugar
• 3/4 cup whole milk
• 1.5 tsp corn starch 
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 2 sticks butter (16 tbsp) 
• 2 tbsp amaretto mixed with 1.5 tbsp instant espresso or coffee

Basically a german buttercream is a pastry cream mixed with butter. It gives it a creamier texture. So you make the pastry cream first. Mix the egg yolks, sugar, and cornstarch in a medium heat proof bowl. In the small saucepan, heat up the milk until it's simmering, turn off. Then, while constantly whisking slowly mix half the milk into the egg yolk mixture. This tempers the egg yolks and prevents them from scrambling which is what would happen if you added them in right away. Then pour the whole shebang back into the saucepan and turn it back on, whisking constantly until it's thick like pudding.

Put it in the fridge for 30 minutes to an hour to cool down. 

After 30 min, in a stand mixer with a paddle attachment beat the room temperature butter. In three separate batches add in the pastry cream, scraping down the sides to make sure everything is well incorporated. Then add in the amaretto-coffee mixture. Turn it up to high and beat the crap out of that butter until it increases in volume and starts to look like a butter cream. 

You can store that covered in the fridge.

Ganache 

• 6 oz bittersweet or dark chocolate
• 3/4 cup heavy whipping cream 
• 2 tsp corn syrup

Put the chocolate in a heat proof bowl. Heat up the heavy whipping cream and the corn syrup in a small saucepan until simmering. Pour over chocolate, and whisk it to incorporate. Donnnne. That step is easy. Oh yeah, and let it chill in the fridge for about 10-15 minutes until it's still liquid, but not hot. 

Okay, so with the meringue, cut it down with a serrated knife so it's 10 x 12 inches. You want to do this slowly, so you're using the weight of the knife to cut it. Then, make a mark/nick in the meringue to divide it into four equal parts. These will be your layers. Cut them length-wise gently. If it breaks...oh yeah, you can glue that back together with the butter cream/ganache, but try to keep them in one piece. 

Then lay them out on a baking sheet. Put 1/4 cup chocolate ganache on three out of four layers. spread it, save the remaining chocolate. Put it in the fridge for 20 minutes. Then pull it out, and but 1/2 cup of the buttercream on the layer that does not have chocolate. Then place the buttercream side down on top of a chocolate layer, so the buttercream and the chocolate are touching, and you're making a meringue-chocolate-buttercream-meringue sandwich. Then put more buttercream on the top of the sandwich (another 1/2 cup) and put a chocolate piece on top of that, adding to the sandwich. 

By the end of it, you should have a clean (no chocolate,no ganache) top, and a four layer sandwich going on. Then you want to coat the outside in whatever buttercream you have left. The most important part is the top, the sides can be coated kind of mehhh...but the top should be smooth and flat. 

Then refrigerate it for half an hour to an hour. I skipped this step, and boy did I pay for it. My stuff still turned out tasting amazing, but I mean, it was defffinitely not as pretty as it could have been. When you're about to pull out the dacquoise, pop the remaining chocolate in the microwave for 10 seconds to melt it so it's pourable but not hot. 

Pull out the dacquoise. Pour the chocolate on top, and quickly spread it over the top into a smooth layer. Then spread the chocolate that dripped on the sides. 

Almost done...

Topping

• Hazelnuts
• Toasted slivered almonds

Then you want to coat the side of the dacquoise in almond. You can do it with it sitting on a tray, or you can lift it up if you're so bold (I did, it's no big). Just press the almonds into the side. 

Then use the hazelnuts on top. You can line them up in a row to "mark" the pieces so it is easier to eyeball pieces when you cut. I put the slivered almond on the entire dacquoise because I wanted to...but you don't have to. 

Then refrigerate for hour or two before slicing. Or you can let it sit over night. Stays good for 2-4 days covered in the fridge. 

Best. cake. ever.

This. Almond. Tart.

I just finished eating a slice. It is so good. Simple, not too sweet, not overwhelming. Just the cookie-like crust, the slight tang of the jam and the wonderful flavor of the almonds. My words of advice: if you don't have almond meal, you can make it easily by pulsing whole almonds in a food processor. Pulse them because you want almond meal, not almond butter. Please don't skip out on the layer of jam on the crust, it add to the flavor. Pick a jam that isn't too sweet and has a little tang...it'll go a long way. I'd go with apricot, or sour cherry. Enough with the words, on to the recipe.

Almond Tart 
Slightly mdified from Cooking with Manuela

Tart Crust

2 egg yellows (save the whites for the filling)
0.33 cups sugar
1 tsp vanilla
2 tbsp milk / heavy cream (I used heavy cream)
1.5 sticks butter, cubed
2 cups all purpose flour
pinch of salt

Preheat oven to 375F.

In a food processor or with a hand mixer or even in a stand mixer, beat the egg yellows and sugar together until well combined. Then add the vanilla, heavy cream/milk, salt, and mix. Then beat in the butter until it's mixed thoroughly with the liquid (it doesn't have to be smooth, just mixed). Then, mix the flour in a 1/2 cup until it comes together. Since this is a tart dough, it'll be wetter than usual crust, and that's okay. Transfer the dough into a pre-buttered and floured tart part, sprinkle a little flour on top of the dough, and press it out thinly into the pan. You want the tart crust to be thinly spread because it will rise, so you can peel off any excess. Poke holes in the base with fork tines so that no bubbles form during the baking process and put it in a 375F oven for 20 minutes.

While it's baking you can make the filling:

Filling
0.25 cup jam (tart and sweet, but not too sweet -- apricot, blackberry, cherry. I used a jam from my friend Laurie over at Laurie's Little Kitchen)
5 egg whites
0.33 cups sugar
2 cups almond meal
Slivered almonds for topping

You can either buy the almond meal or make it yourself (see above text prior to recipe). Beat the egg whites to stiff peaks. Add in regular white granulated sugar, and fold it in by hand. Then add in the almond meal, and fold in well. You'll see the egg whites deflate a little, but that's okay, just make sure you're folding, rather than stirring the stuff in.

Now...to assemble the tart! After the shell comes out of the oven, turn your oven down to 350F. Pour the jam filling into the tart and spread it out, creating a thin layer. Then pour the filling into the tart and spread it out with a spatula/spoon. Top with silvered almonds. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until the top is slightly brown.

Jam!

Pre-baking

Pull out, let cool, and serve with powdered sugar dusted on top, or by itself.

So good

Immediately post-baking

Mint and Pea Crostini with Pickled Radishes and Burrata

Spring has finally laid its gentle hand on the winter-weary backs of Bostonians. That's my fancy way of saying -- it's SPRING! I classify that temperatures above 32F. The icebergs have melted (mostly), the sun is out (sometimes), and I don't have to wear multiple layers to brave the wintry winds (usually).

Celebration wouldn't be celebration without spring-type foods. Food with the colors, and the pretty, and the pop of spring. With herbs, green, and tart, and SPRING.

Can you tell I'm happy about spring? Sunshine for all!

Anyways, make this one night. It's simple, beautiful, and delicious. It may seem tricky to pickle something, but honestly, it's really not. The most complicated part of the process is slicing the radishes -- which is super easy if you have a food processor. The pickling process takes 10 minutes, and you can store the radishes in your fridge for about 1-2 weeks.

Mint and Pea Crostini with Pickled Radishes and Burrata
Slightly modified from Salt and Wind

Bread
Thinly slice a baguette and toast it at 375 with a little olive oil drizzled on top.

Pickled Radishes
This I learned from Cookie and Kate

Thinly slice 1 bunch radishes
3/4 cup vinegar (white wine or apple cider)
3/4 cup water
2 tablespoons maple syrup
2 teaspoons salt
Red Pepper Flakes (optional)
Mustard Seeds (optional)
Fennel (optional)

Slice the radishes thinly using a knife, mandolin, or food processor. Stuff them into a jar (I used a mason jar). Top with red pepper flakes and mustard seeds, or whatever other accoutrements (garlic cloves, fennel, etc.) Bring the vinegar, water, maple syrup, and salt to a boil. Turn it off, let it cool for about 30 seconds and then gingerly pour it over the radishes, close the container loosely, and let it sit for 10 minutes, and it should be good to go! Keep it stored in the fridge, closed, for 1-2 weeks.

Smashed Mint Peas
2 cups frozen peas
2 cloves garlic
2 tablespoons mint
1 tablespoon cilantro
1 lemon, juiced and zested
2 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper to taste
Siracha to taste
Red pepper flakes to taste

Bring a medium saucepan of salted water to boil, and cook the peas until tender, which should take 3-4 minutes. Make sure not to overcook them. Drain the water out of the saucepan, and add to the still warm peas the butter, garlic, and lemon juice. Smash the peas together. When you're almost done smashing them, add in the mint, cilantro, siracha, salt, and pepper, and then finish smashing. Adjust seasoning to your preferences.

Assembly

Burrata or Mozarella, sliced


Lay the slices of bread out on a tray. Top generously with the smashed pea mixture, then on one half side of the bread lay out some of the burrata, and on the other half side of the bread lay out the radishes. Drizzle with olive oil and pepper and serve.


 

Favorites with an Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cocoa Nib Cookie

I haven't posted since last year.


It's 2012! January 2nd, 2012 to be specific [well, when I first started writing this it was January 2nd]. A day of birth for my mother, the day before I go to work for me, and just another day of break for my graduate-student husband. Ahh, life. 


I haven't posted in a little while since I was enjoying break by indulging in a few books, a few glasses of wine, and a few interesting recipes. One of which is this oatmeal chocolate chip cocoa nib cookie, which is my new favorite I believe. 


So what happened this last year? 


Oh yeah, I began my second year of teaching, took a road trip up Highway 1 and saw the beauty of the California coast, turned in my application for medical school, worried over medical school applications, got accepted to medical school (!!!), planned a vacation with my best friend, got a second dog, oh yeah, and married my most wonderful man <3 


2011 was awesome. I feel lucky, I am lucky. 
So anyways, enough about me, let's talk about favorites...I figured my end of 2011 tribute would be a list of my favorite STUFF that I may or may not have found in 2011, but I did devour in 2011...enjoy! 


Favorite Blogs
Joy the Baker -- by far, she has the most beautiful pictures of food, and a very true to self voice in her writing. It always makes me smile.


101 Cookbooks -- Heidi Swan is awesome. She's got an awesome cookbook that I bought, Supernatural Everyday, and her blog is just that, supernatural. Filled with awesome, easy to do, vegetarian recipes. 


David Lebovitz -- He lives a life I dream of, in Paris. Also, he's a genius. Amazing black pepper chocolate ice cream. Amazing. 


ReadBreathRelax -- I love this blog. It's a woman who reads an obscene number of books, in the young adult, fantasy genre and reviews them. It's what stops me from looking around confused at the library :-) 


Hyperboleandahalf -- hilarious online comic strip, I love this woman.


Favorite Books
Most of the links are to a book review of these books


Starcrossed by Josephine Angelini -- basically a high school girl finds out she's a greek demi-god and awesomeness ensures.


The Girl in the Steel Corset by Kady Cross -- basically a girl finds out she's the daughter of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, and awesomeness ensues.


The entire Mortal Instruments Series by Cassandra Clare -- basically a girl finds out she's part of an ancient, mysterious group of superhumans that protect the regular world, and awesomeness ensues.


The entire Infernal Devices Series by Cassandra Clare -- prequel to the Mortal Instruments Series, and awesomeness ensues.


Catching a pattern? Awesome female leads, and awesomeness always ensues. But sadly, nothing has come up to par with my all time favorite, The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo Series. 


Favorite Discoveries of the Year (or things I really used a LOT this year)
Google Reader -- Helps you compile all the detritus you read on the interwebs into one, easy to access place. LOVES it. 


Dropbox -- discovered this a while ago, but used it SO much this year to share resources with my other co-teachers, or even to make sure all the work I did on one computer was accessible from anywhere


iPhone -- I was late to this game but boy oh boy, I definitely see what all the hype is about. I thought I wouldn't need it or use it. Wow, I was wrong. 


The New York Times Op-Ed page including Paul Krugman, Maureen Dowd, and Gail Collins -- In the craziness that has been the 2010/2011 congressional elections and primary run, these wonderful op-ed contributors remind me of the sanity left in the world, and make me smile with their witty, and awesome commentary.


My Favorite Recipes/Posts
December -- Lemon Olive-Oil Kale Salad
November -- Pumpkin Pie Bars with a Hazelnut Almond Shortbread Crust
October -- Not So Slow Food 
September -- Homemade Sugar Scrub
August -- Shortchanging our Students. Shortchanging our Future.
July -- Raspberry White Balsamic Fruit Tart
June -- Weiner's Bride: An Example of Sexism in Politics
May -- Two of 'em! A Nice Guy and Should Gays Boycott Straight Weddings?
April -- President Obama 2012
March -- Springbreak + Chocolate Scones
February -- Lemon Curd
January -- Sweet Potato Pie


And of course, my first recipe of 2012, oatmeal chocolate, cocoa nib recipe below!

 Oatmeal Chocolate Chip Cocoa Nib Cookies
Adapted from Joy the Baker


1 cup butter
1 cup white sugar
1 cup brown sugar
2 eggs
2 tsp. vanilla
2 cups all purpose flour
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. baking soda
0.75 tsp salt
2.5 cups rolled oats
1 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips
0.5 cups cocoa nibs


Preheat your oven to 350 F and line two baking sheets with parchment paper. 


In a stand mixer, cream together butter and sugar for 3-5 minutes or until light and fluffy. Turn it off and scrape down the sides of the bowl. Then turn the mixer onto medium and cream in the two eggs. Then add in the vanilla. 


In a separate bowl, measure out the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Mix well, turn your stand mixer to low, and add in the flour mixture in until just incorporated. It's okay if there are little bits that aren't incorporated yet, you'll get to that later.

Then combine the oats, chocolate, and cocoa nibs in a bowl. Remove the stand-mixer bowl from the stand, and then using a spatula incorporate the oats-mixtures until it's all well mixed and there are no more extra bits of flour.


Then use a tablespoon to scoop out balls onto your baking sheet and bake for 10-13 minutes, or until the edges are brown and the middle looks only mildly goo-ey. Let them cool, and then eat 'em! 




Hope you had a wonderful 2011, and I really hope these cookies help you have an even better 2012